|DIY Interior ceiling and wall painting tips and
techniques, including doors and trim molding.
Learn to cut straight lines, rolling techniques and the
use of professional paint tools to give you the do it
yourself painter a quality finished look.
|After reading the drywall repair prep section and you've purchased professional
tools, you can move forward to the painting stage. At this point all furniture should
be moved to a center area of each room, everything removed from the walls,
including all outlet and switch plate covers. Next layout paint canvas or old sheets
on the floor to protect from any potential paint spills or droplets, then vacuum
around the base board trim. If painting baseboards, tape them off from the floor.
|Ceilings should always be painted first (if it's on your list to do) with a
flat sheen paint, usually in white but don't be afraid of bolder colors.
Pour 2/3rds. of a gallon at a time into a "large" paint tray with a plastic
liner (plastic liners allow easy cleanup), use a 3/8" to 1/2" nap premium
roller cover. Cut with a brush around any fixtures or can lights that you
can't remove, and all corners that the roller won't coat.
|"Cutting in" is a term used to describe painting one color next to
another, with a paint brush. Pour a small amount of paint into an empty
one gallon paint can or container, use a 2" or 2 1/2" angle sash brush to
cut wall color to the ceiling and walls to the base molding and door or
window casing trim. Gently dip your brush into the paint about a 1/2" or
so, never cover all of the brush. Unload the brush before attempting to
paint a cut line, you can do this by tapping the brush sideways against
the inside of the can, or scrape the brush on one edge of the can. Then
place the brush near the edge to cut on the wall, then lift the brush and
place it to the left or right of the initial place where most of the paint
touched the wall. Brush in one smooth stroke across the wall with the
brush hair barely touching the edge or other color. The brush and hairs
should be between horizontal and vertical, pulling the brush left or right.
After you've made the initial line repeat this until all the paint has laid out
uniform and to the edge completely. Continue this about a foot or two at
a time until you've gone around the entire room, complete a second time
top and bottom, then you're ready to roll the walls.
|Always use a paint pole with a roller frame, this gives more precise
handling when rolling ceilings and walls. (a 4' extension or 2' in tight
hallways) Slide a roller cover over the frame and gently roll the cover
into the paint tray, starting near the top of the tray as you roll into the
paint (don't cover the ends of the frame in paint) lift and roll in until the
cover only is covered. Once the roller is covered, roll some of the
excess off near the highest point of the tray. Apply roller to ceiling or
wall with smooth even movements, and laying out the paint in an even
fashion. Make diagonal paths with the roller first, and fill in all open
areas by evening out the paint. Usually this is done by making an X or
W pattern and filling in open areas with straight lines. Ceilings are done
in sections, always keeping a wet edge. One walls, repeat these steps
and make full lines from the ceiling to the floor as you move around the
room, always starting at the last wet edge. Or on a ceiling, from one
side to the other, and flat paint is much more forgiving and doesn't
leave any roller lines (unless you leave thick paint lines behind).
|Painting Tips - Techniques for Brush and Rolling!
Farmington Hills, MI.
|Walls should always be rolled twice to insure proper coating, color and durability. Ceilings are
usually rolled once if you are covering in the same color, if not then roll it twice. (It would be
horrible to sit down to view your completed project, then notice the old ceiling color showing
through) Some colors like certain reds and yellows may need multiple coats, if this is the case,
cut and roll one wall at a time. Light tan's can turn out looking like peach or pink, and priming is
not necessary when using a flat sheen. If you're using ceramic's or the typical eggshell or higher
sheens, you must prime any patching with any primer or it will flash! Flashing is patch that
shows through the paint finish in a different sheen, and does not look professional.